Diary of a deckbitch…

Scapa Flow

Scapa?  Where is that then?  Well, head north, then north some more, and then maybe some more north.  Ok, so thats not actually that helpfull is it?  :D 

Scapa Flow is one of the jewels in the crown of UK diving.  The remains of the German fleet, scuttled in the closing days of WW1  now lie entombed in the icy depths of the flow.  Their legacy is some of the best diving in the world, the behemoths of the battleships rising from 45m to 22m, guns pointing skywards, on eternal patrol.

Getting to Scapa itself is pretty dependant on where you are coming from.  There are two basic ways of doing it.  You can get to Thurso/Scrabster (same place really) and get the ferry from there over to Stromness.  Or you can drive to Aberdeen and get the ferry to Kirkwall.

Scrabster - Stromness.  This is the most popular and probably the most straight forward way of doing this trip.  Scrabster is the port itself, Thurso is the town around 10 yards from it!  Thurso has a good selection of shops, a Woolworths, pubs, bars and a nightclub.  There are a plethora of places to stay, but i would reccomend Waterside House B&B as it can easily accomodate all 12 of a dive group in comfortable surroundings - it is also around a 5 minute stagger from the pubs!  Cost is around £20 a head, book in advance.  Having done this trip a few times, if you take the friday off work and take your time to drive up, arriving in Thurso in the evening it is by far the best way.  The other advantage of doing it this way is that you get into Stromness which is where all of the dive boats sail from. 

The Ferry from Scrabster to Stromness.

The route is operated by Northlink Ferries, and you can book on as a group.  You can leave your cars on the mainland, there is a pay and display car park, or a few free spaces on the roadside if you are quick!  Cost is around £30 per person return.  If you book on as a group you can book a container for all your equipment.  These are delivered to the ferry terminal and will be full of other divers kit.  As you approach the terminal itself you will see to the right an area for cars to wait to board the ferry.  To the left is a weigh bridge and large open tarmac area.  This is where the containers are dropped off.  Please allow the other divers to unload their kit.  The ferry is hardly going to leave without you since you have a load of their containers, there is no massive hurry!  Once you have your kit loaded, go and park your car and head back.  The ferry is large and comfortable, with onboard bar and cafe.  Dependant on the weather, the ferry will either head to the west of Hoy, where you can see the Old Man Of Hoy, or if it is rough, will head East and actually sail up through the flow. 

Once in Stromness, the ferry terminal is within spitting distance of the harbour where all the dive boats reside.  The containers with your kit will be unloaded, but again, there is no massive hurry.  Go and find your boat and meet your skipper :D  The containers have wheels on them, so you can wheel them around the harbour to the boat and stow all your stuff.  Please return the containers as asked.

The ferry from Aberdeen to Kirkwall.

I have never done this route, but it is far more popular with islanders themselves.  It is a much longer crossing time as you have to sail up the side of the mainland first.  Be aware that if you do sail into Kirkwall you need to get all your kit etc over to Stromness - around a 20 minute drive.  Taxi’s and minibusses are easily available, but i would reccomend booking well ahead.  The main advantage to doing the trip this way is that it can be done by public transport - train from Edinburgh to Aberdeen, and then Ferry.

Stromness itself

Stromness is a very nice small town.  It has many pubs, the best (in my humble opinion) is the Ferry Inn, which is where most of the locals drink.  They do excellent food and have a good selection of beers and spirits.  But then, being divers, we wouldnt drink would we

There is a cash point, Co-op, butchers, bakers, fish and chip shop, numerous gift shops etc etc.  Please try to support local trade by using the smaller shops and not the supermarket. 

There are two dive shops - the Dive Cellar which is the closest to the harbour.  This sells a huge selection of Scapa Flow clothing if you are keen to advertise you have dived the flow.  There is also a large stock of items you are likley to need having lost while diving!

There is also Scapa Scuba, a 5 minute walk through the town.  Situated in the old Lifeboat house and run by Ben and Sara Wade, it is an excellent place to mosey on to have a chat.  Ben makes novelty hoods, devil, mickey mouse, clownfish etc etc all making an appearance.  Even a superman drysuit!  Suit repairs can be done overnight by Ben, so dont panic if you bust your zip or rip your neckseal.  He also runs various courses such as nitrox etc.

Boats.

There are a huge selection of boats on the flow.  The vast majority are liveaboards, with a few day boats for those who dont fancy the UK liveaboard scene!

I am not going to go into the boats, as i have only dived from the one - the Jean Elaine.  I wouldnt hesitate to reccomend her as she is an outstanding boat with a very very good skipper and crew.  Nearly as good as the Stormdrift

The Dives

Scapa is what you make it.  People always think it is deep, dark and nasty.  Well, it can be, if you want it to be.  It can also be shallow, light and friendly!  Depths range from 10m on the blockships to 45m on the battleships and the James Barrie.  If you go out of the flow hunting for deeper stuff, you are into mix territory, but there are some excellent dives up there if you do. 

The Blockships are very very tidal.  Because of this the life on them is spectacular, and the visibility is forever - i have had 15m easily.  My favourite dive up there is the Tabarka, simply because it is like diving inside a cathedral.  Huge interior, i am yet to see a photograph which does it justice.  Despite the shallower depths, this is not a novice dive due to the tide.  If you are uncomfortable sending up and SMB or ascending in a current, you should not do these dives.

The German Fleet Wrecks are at the opposite end of the flow to the blockships but are not tidal.  The huge hulking wrecks are truly massive.  All are shotted permanently.  Do not penetrate them if you are unsure, do not penetrate them if you have no training to do so.  Divers are lost regularly as they misplace a fin and kick up the rusty silt and get lost.  You have been warned.  Also, it is forbidden to take any brass from these wrecks, so leave those portholes where you find them!

The bottle run is a great second dive - an area where the detritus from the daily life on board a ship was ejected over the side.  Here you can find all manner of items, from plates, bottles, cutlery and even shell cases.  Also there are scallops which are best pan fried in butter and garlic!

Other bits and bobs

If you are staying on board a boat, please be aware that there is a large tidal range in Scapa.  If you go to the pub and there is 1m of ladder, unless you are in there for a rather long time, there will be guaranteed to be more ladder when you get back!  So dont get a skin-full and find you cant climb the ladder, thats not a good plan

Never adjust the ropes holding the boat - regardless of if it has drifted out away from the harbour wall.  Simply stand on the rope where it leaves the bollard and it will slowly drift back in to the quayside. 

Scapa can be 4 seasons in one day, so take plenty of warm clothing, even in August! 

There is a recompression chamber in Stromness, but beware, it is small and cramped.  If it is in use, or you are bent enough to warrant it, its off to Aberdeen!

March 5th, 2006 Posted by helen | Stuff | one comment